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Hancheng lies around 240 km northeast of Xi'an and is surrounded by the Yellow River and the Guangzhong Plains.
According to legends, Yu (who could control water) cleared a path for the Yellow River to run until Longmen. Therefor, Hancheng was first called Longmen. In the Early Western Zhou, Longmen became Hancheng, named after the Han loess plateau in the east of the city.
In ancient times, Hancheng was a true economic centre. Merchants from all over the country came here to trade, but its cultural and religious role cannot be neglected either. Sima Qian was born in Hancheng. Many scholars and court officers once studied at one of its confucianistic schools.
The present city is divided into two parts: the old and the new city. In both parts many architectural buildings, dating from several dynasties back, are still standing. Because of these buildings Hancheng gives you a real feeling of Chinese authenticity.
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Confucius Temple 文庙 |
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This small temple was built during the Yuan dynasty (1271-1368). Although it has been rebuilt many times, the main building is still in its original state.
It is divided into four courtyards and in the middle is a large pool. In each courtyard you can find tall ancient cypresses in all kinds of shapes. People believe that touching one brings good fortune.
There is a small museum that displays some relics found in the neighbourhood.
There are thousands of temples dedicated to Confucius. This is not the most magnificent one of them all. Nevertheless, the architecture is amazing and is the place to be if you are looking for a quiet spot in Hancheng. |
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Dangjia Village 党家村 |
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In 1331 (Yuan dynasty) the Dang clan started to built a small town around 9 km northeast of Hancheng. About 100 years later another clan, the Jia clan began to do business with the Dang clan and eventually married them into this little town. As they became more prosperous because of their trade business with other regions, they started building sihuyuan, courtyard houses. These courtyard houses represent the architecture of the Ming and Qing dynasties. Education was of great importance. The village has a good defence system, fortresses with watch towers and double layered walls.
Present-day 320 households or 1,400 people inhabit this special village. They still live and work here. As you visit the village, it is a bit awkward to peek into these people's lives. Some courtyards are being used as museums and display wonderful pieces of history. It is quite preferable to ask a guide to tell you more about the area and daily life. Just wondering around is not only time consuming, but big chance you leave with the wrong idea. There are almost no sings, you can just walk into a courtyard and take pictures guessing where you are. You can easily walk into ones kitchen or bedroom without realising it.
If you would like to try on a ceremonial hat or take a seat in one of the wooden seats. You first have to ask and negotiate about the price. Since this place is not crowded with tourists, you have to seek for these money collectors first. Nevertheless, this village is a must to visit.
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Sima Qian's Ancestral Hall 司马迁祠 |
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Sima Qian (145 - 87 B.C.) was born in Longmen, near present-day Hancheng. At a young age, he already mastered the old writings and was taught by some famous confucianists. At the age of 20 he travelled around the country to collect evidence of all those historical rumors and legends known so far. These findings formed the basis of his masterpiece and first Chinese historical book, the Shiji. This book has been an enormously influential resource to historians, literary, scholars and philosophers of all time.
But Sima Qian's life was not all glory. While he was one of the counsellors of the emperor Han Wudi, he got involved in a painful situation. Han Wudi, ordered two military officers Li Ling and Li Guangli to lead a campaign against the Xiongnu. The missions were not a success and someone had to be blamed the defeat. Knowing that Li Guangli was the brother-in-law of the emperor, the decision of blaming Li Ling was not a surprise. But Sima Qian supported Li Ling. The emperor was offended by Sima Qian's decision and sentenced him to death. Since he didn't have enough money to buy his way into prison instead of execution, he was given the option of castration and was then thrown into prison.
In 96 B.C. he was released from prison and short after the completion of his masterpiece he died.
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His tomb lies on a small hill of the Hanyi Slope, in Zhichuan Town, around 18 km south of Hancheng city. Present-day buildings date back from the Ming and Qing, but they already started building the temple during the Song dynasty. The bricked tomb was originally built in 310 during the Western Jin, but it didn't always look like it does now. A Mongolian king once traded the original tomb for a yurt-like tomb, with a cypress tree growing inside. Sima Qian was never buried here though.
To reach the tomb you have to climb 99 steps. The hall in front of the tomb contains a big statue of the great historian himself. Along the way to the top you can admire many poems dedicated to Sima Qian written on stone steles. Besides the crazy looking old trees and many stone steles, you have a nice panorama of the Yellow River.
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Wei Wall 魏城 |
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During the Wei state, many battles had been fought and won against neighbouring states, accept against the Qin. Because the Qin were so powerful, the Wei started building walls as a defence. The wall that runs through Hancheng county is called the East Wall, although some believe it was a part of the West Wall. Most likely the wall started in Huaxian county, headed north where it crossed the Wei River, run along the Luo River and finally reached the west bank of the Yellow River in Hancheng county. Remnants of this wall can be found about 20 km south of Hancheng. This wall (8 m thick and 5 m high) was built around 534 and during the Qin it became a part of the Great Wall. Another part of the Wei Wall can be found some 60 km west of Sima Qian's Ancestral Hall.
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Other places of interest |
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Longmen 龙门 The Yellow River Harbor Affairs of Hancheng offers you a boat trip on the Yellow River, starting at Longmen and ending at Hukou waterfalls. During this 64 km trip you will see some pretty amazing landscapes, such as gorges and caves.
Yu Gate 禹门 Yu Gate is named after the great King Yu who could control water and forced the Yellow River to run until Longmen. This is the place where it all happened.
The water gate is nothing more than a 30 m long bridge connecting both sides of the Yellow River bank.
(D.De Hon)
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